Henschke - Comparing the Hills
I recently had the pleasure of going to a Henschke Single Vineyard Dinner where I got to taste 10 Henschke wines.
Henschke Julius Riesling
The first interesting pairing was the 2008 and 2025 Julius Riesling. The 2025 screamed of typical Eden Valley lime character and acidity, along with limestone, chalk, lemon and white grapefruit. Citrus dominant but beautifully balanced. My first impression of the 2008 was lees, brioche, caramel, lemon and lemon curd. It was beautifully rounded and smooth in the mouth.
The 2025 was the pick to go with the ceviche that most people had for entrée. As I am allergic to seafood, I had a mushroom-based entrée and the richness of the 2008 had my vote.
Julius 2025: Rating: Bloody Delish Price: AUD 58
Julius 2008: Rating: Bloody Delish Price: AUD 82
Henschke The Wheelright Shiraz 2022 and Henschke Mount Edelstone 2022
Another interesting pairing was the 2022 The Wheelright Shiraz and the 2022 Mount Edelstone Shiraz. The Wheelright was initially lovely and as it opened up the tannins came out to play and dominated. In a word – Black! Black shoe polish, dark black currant, black raspberry, violet, and chalk with a firm acidic backbone. It was lighter and more immediately pleasing than the Mount Edelstone and will be at its best drinker earlier but it still needs a good 10 years of age on it.
The Mount Edelstone was a really smooth, full bodied and complex wine. The fruit came from 100 year old vines and it showed. Black and red plum, red currant, sage and chocolate. It was a beautifully integrated wine. I would love to drink it in 20 years.
The Wheelright Shiraz 2022: Rating: Bloody Delish Price: AUD 180
Mount Edelstone Shiraz 2022: Rating: Outstanding Price: AUD 340
Henschke Hill of Roses 2022 and Henschke Hill of Grace 2022
My favourite wine pairing of the night was 2022 Hill of Roses and 2022 Hill of Grace. What a blockbuster!
The Hill of Roses was planted with material from the Hill of Grace, making it an interesting comparison of younger and older vines. Hill of Roses was much fruiter and brighter than the Hill of Grace and displayed black raspberry, black and red plum as well as pink peppercorn flavours. It definitely showed itself to be the wine from younger vines.
The Hill of Grace, as it opened up, was in a class of its own. Smoother, rounder, more ample, more complex, and more concentrated. A deeper level of spices and a very firm tannic backbone. It is still such a baby and way too young to drink. I would love to taste it again in 20 to 30 years when it has had time to fully develop.
Henschke Hill of Roses Shiraz 2022: Rating: Outstanding Price: AUD 560
Henschke Hill of Grace Shiraz 2022: Rating: Outstanding Price: AUD 1,250
All I need to do now is the ultimate Australian wine tasting between the two heavyweights: Penfold’s Grange Hermitage and Henschke’s Hill of Grace. Any offers?