Henschke Heaven - Keyneton Euphonium Vertical

The most intriguing part of the Henschke dinner was tasting the Keyneton Euphonium Vertical consisting of the 2023, 2016 and 2009 vintages - yes, they brought along some of their museum wines. The average blend of grapes varieties for this vertical was 60% Shiraz and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon (the percentages changed over the different vintages) plus a small amount of other varieties.

2023

This wine was all about dark fruit – think black plum and mulberry – with nutmeg, cinnamon, tarragon, oak and bitumen.  There was initially fruit brightness but as it opened up it lost its floral beauty and became tarter with more redcurrant, cranberry and sour cherry elements coming through.

Rating: Bloody Delish     Price: AUD 68

2016

This wine was very tannic with the tannins not quite integrated.  Flavours of dried prunes and tarragon dominated.  It did improve as it opened up.  As my friend described it, it was a bit like a teenager who had not yet found themself.  Needs further ageing.

Rating: Okay        Price: AUD 87

2009

I knew this was an old wine the moment I saw the sediment in the glass.  The first sniff gave me the aroma of pink marshmallows.  This flavour carried through on the palate and it was all tertiary notes with prunes and dried figs.  It opened up gorgeously and was round, smooth, integrated, concentrated and well balanced.

Rating: Outstanding       Price: AUD 101

All of these wines were paired with a duck, fennel and lentil dish – matched superbly, especially to the 2009.  Would also pair well with red meat dishes.

At our end of the table, the 2009 was voted the favourite, closely followed by the 2023.  Only one person showed a preference for the 2016.