A Biodynamic Experience - Cullen Wines

Vanya Cullen is one of Australia’s top winemakers and I took the opportunity while in Margaret River to visit the Cullen Wines cellar door. Vanya practices biodynamic and dry-farm viticulture and is part of Margaret River’s sustainable winemaking movement. A visit to the estate is an immersion into Cullen’s philosophy of quality, sustainability and integrity.

I opted for the Flagship Experience that allowed me to explore Cullen’s icons alongside some delightful surprises from the broader range.

2024 Dancing in the Moonlight (Rosé)

A charming curveball - this wine was like a soft white wine in a rosé robe, despite being made exclusively from red grapes. Very quaffable on a hot summer day

Rating: Delish Price: AUD 33

2023 Kevin John (Chardonnay)

Tasted alongside the 2024 Kevin John, the 2023 was my preference. From a cooler year, it has resulted in a wine that is more refined and floral with citrus notes of clementine, lemon and mandarin. The 2023 offers less fruit weight than the 2024, and there was also less overt oak, making it in my opinion a better balanced wine.

Rating: Delish Price AUD 450 for a magnum

2020 Diana Madeline

A vertical tasting of the 2020, 2022 and 2023 Diana Madeline - a Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant wine. The 2023 is still a baby and the small percentage of Petit Verdot is currently dominating with its herbal astringency and tannins. The structure is there for a beautiful wine that needs to age for at least 10 years.

I preferred the 2022 to the 2023, which was made from a slightly warmer vintage and did not contain any Petit Verdot. It was initially very soft and subtle on the palate.

The standout was the 2020. From a hot vintage, it bursts with ripe red and black fruits - red and black cherry, blackberry, black currant - and framed by a hint of tar. Despite spending 13 months in 50% new oak, the integration was seamless and the tannins were soft. Such a balanced, refined and elegant wine.

Rating: Bloody Delish Price: 450 for a magnum